By Jeff Callahan
Every year as it has for the past 27 years, Wine Spectator magazine has released its August edition which recognizes top wine lists from around the world. This year, 4,129 restaurants were awarded in one of three categories: the basic Award of Excellence; the more accomplished Best of Award of Excellence; and the coveted Grand Award of Excellence. Awards are given based on the quality of the list, and how it relates to menu it accompanies.
25 restaurants were recognized in 2008 from the St. Louis-metro area. Five of those 25 received the “Best” award: Anie Gunn’s, Busch’s Grove, Gerard’s Restaurant, Monarch Restaurant, and Truffles. To qualify for the Best of Award of Excellence, a dining establishment must list at least 400 labels on its wine list. It also must display either a broad, global range of top wine producers, or it must specialize in a particular country or region. (It wouldn’t be recognized if it had 100 great wines, and 300 mediocre selections.)
Finally, these “Best” lists must show a depth of vintages, including older “bottlings” of wines that age well, as well as solid “verticals”. (A “vertical” is an offering of different vintages of the same wine type from the same winery. A “vertical” emphasizes differences between various vintages.)
The basic Award of Excellence, with 3,254 winners globally, is the most inclusive category. Although we refer to it as “basic”, judges still award these wine lists based on very high standards. For example, in 2008, 982 restaurants submitted their lists to Wine Spectator for the first time, and 319 of those were rejected. Award of Excellence winners are selected based on quality wine producers, an emphasis on wines that will pair well with the unique cuisine of the restaurant, and the list must have at least 100 wines. Spelling is also a big issue for judges.
I am proud to be the Sommelier at the only “metro-east” restaurant listed with the 2008 St. Louis-area winners. At Porter’s Steakhouse in Collinsville, IL, we offer 170 labels, with 15 wines by-the-glass, as well as a good selection of half bottles. Being a steak house, we feature Cabernet Sauvignon on 20% of our wine list. We also offer numerous grape varieties from most of the major wine regions around the world. Prices range from $10.00 per bottle to $800.00 per bottle.
Other St. Louis area restaurants receiving the Award of Excellence are Cardwells at the Plaza, Charlie Gitto’s On the Hill, Harvest, Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood, Tony’s, 1111 Mississippi, Flemings Prime Steaks and Wine Bar, 400 Olive - An Urban Grille, Lorusso’s Cocina, Lucas Park Grille, Luciano’s Trattoria, both Melting Pot restaurants, Morton’s-The Steakhouse, Portabella, Remy’s Kitchen and Wine Bar, Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, Savor and Vin de Set.
When a restaurant is recognized for their wine lists quality and attention to detail, chances are that same philosophy holds true for its food and service. In today’s economy we all demand “bang-for-our-buck” quality! I encourage you, therefore, to patronize these award-winning dining establishments and see if you don’t agree.
Jeff Callahan is a Certified Sommelier for Porter’s Steakhouse and co-founder of St. Louis Wine Cats